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홈 > 기관/단체/인물

 

◐ 우리수산물 안내 [참조기]

2006-10-20 22:09:24

 

비굴하지 않은 생선 “참조기”

 


    <자료제공 :군산지방해양수산청 고창해양수산사무소>
 

 참조기는 일명 조기라고도 하고, 《자산어보》에 “추수어”라 하였고, 《오주연문》에는 “석수
어”라 하였다.


최대 몸길이 40cm이고, 몸 등쪽은 암회색을 띠지만 배쪽은 희거나 황금색에 가깝다. 입술은 붉은색을 띠며, 입 안은 희고 아가미구멍은 검은색을 띤다. 등지느러미와 꼬리지느러미는 연한 노란색 또는 갈색을 띠지만, 가슴지느러미, 배지느러미, 뒷지느러미는 선명한 노란색을 띤다.


  수심 40∼200m의 바닥이 모래나 뻘로 되어 있는 연안에서 서식하고, 겨울에는 남쪽으로 이동하여 겨울을 나며, 봄에 다시 북쪽으로 이동하여 알을 낳는다.


산란기는 3∼6월로서 남쪽일수록 빠르며, 중국 연안과 한국의 서해안 일대에 알을 낳는다.


  조기잡이를 나서려면 우선 고기떼가 몰려들어야 한다. 조기떼가 근처에까지 몰려들었다는 신호는 이들이 내는 묘한 울름소리로 울려 퍼진다.


  조기와 같은 민어과 물고기들의 재미있는 특징은 이렇게 소리를 낸다는 점이다.


한결같이 커다란 부레를 수축시켜 ‘구...구...’하는 높고 큰 소리를 내며 운다.


특히 참조기가 산란기에 우는 소리는 꼭 여름밤에 개구리 우는 소리와 비슷한데, 배 위에까지 크게 울려 퍼져 선원들의 잠을 설치게 할 정도라고 한다.


  산란을 마친 조기가 칠산 바다를 빠져나갈 때도 천둥 번개가 쳤다고 한다. 천둥 번개가 함께 등장하고 사라지는 조기를 사람들은 하늘이 내린 고기라고 생각할 수밖에 없었다.


  서유구는 『난호어목지』에서 조기를 해산물 중의 최고로 꼽고 있다.


조기가 이토록 인기를 끈 데에는 그만한 이유가 있었다.


조기는 말리거나 절여도 모양이 탐스럽게 보여 식욕을 자극한다. 비늘이 잔잔해 따로 벗겨낼 필요가 없고 창자도 그대로 먹을 수 있어 먹기에 편하다.


그리고 무엇보다도 맛이 좋다. 마른 상태에서 그냥 먹어도 좋고 살짝 구우면 더욱 고소한 맛을 즐길 수 있다.

조기는 대량으로 잡혀 여러 가지 방식으로 가공되어 소비되었지만 그 중에서도 가장 유명한 것은 역시 굴비였다.


조기가 "굴비"가 된 까닭은 고려시대 영광(營光)에서 귀향살이를 하던 이자겸이 칠산 앞 바다에서 잡은 조기를 소금에 절여 임금님에게 진상하면서 자신은 결코 왕위를 노린 적이 없으며, 그 어떤 모략에도 비굴 하지 않다는 진의를 전하기 위하여 생선 이름을 굴하지 않는다는 뜻의 "굴비(屈非)"로 붙혀 보낸 데에서 시작되었다는 이야기가 전해진다.


  굴비는 조리하는 방법만 보더라도 그 인기의 정도를 실감할 수 있다. 통째로 구워 먹거나 갖은 양념을 바른 후 쪄서 먹는 방법, 매운탕이나 찌개로 먹는 방법, 북어처럼 완전히 말려 딱딱해진 것을 껍질을 벗기고 두들겨 찢거나 그대로 구운 다음 고추장에 찍어서 먹는 방법, 통보리쌀에 층층이 묵혀두었다가 찢어서 혹은 구워서 고추장에 찍어 먹는 방법 등 굴비는 갖가지 방식으로 조리되어 사람들의 입맛을 끌어당겼다.




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